{"id":115747,"date":"2021-04-12T12:09:21","date_gmt":"2021-04-12T03:09:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nakisurf.com\/blog\/naki\/?p=115747"},"modified":"2021-04-12T15:07:56","modified_gmt":"2021-04-12T06:07:56","slug":"%e3%80%90%e3%82%b5%e3%83%bc%e3%83%95%e3%82%a3%e3%83%b3%e7%a0%94%e7%a9%b6%e6%89%80%e6%b2%96%e7%b8%84%e9%81%93%e5%a0%b4%e3%80%91%ef%bc%bf%ef%bc%88%ef%bc%91%ef%bc%92%ef%bc%96%e6%96%87%e5%ad%97%ef%bc%89","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nakisurf.com\/blog\/naki\/archives\/115747","title":{"rendered":"\u3010\u65e5\u82f1\u5bfe\u5fdc\uff1a\u30b5\u30fc\u30d5\u30a3\u30f3\u7814\u7a76\u6240\u6c96\u7e04\u9053\u5834\u7279\u5927\u53f7\u3011\u30b5\u30fc\u30d5\u30a3\u30f3\u306b\u3064\u3044\u3066\u3001\u4eba\u751f\u306b\u3064\u3044\u3066\u5927\u5207\u306a\u3053\u3068\uff3f\uff08\uff13\uff14\uff13\uff18\u6587\u5b57\uff09"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\u3053\u3053\u306b\u306f\u970a\u77f3\u304c\u3042\u308b\u3002<\/p>\n

There is a spirit stone here.<\/p>\n

\u305d\u306e\u77f3\u306b\u624b\u3092\u5408\u308f\u305b\u3066\u304b\u3089\u30b5\u30fc\u30d5\u3059\u308b\u3068\u3001<\/p>\n

\u4e0d\u601d\u8b70\u3068\u826f\u3044\u6ce2\u304c\u3084\u3063\u3066\u304d\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n

When I surfed after putting my hands on the stone,<\/p>\n

a strangely good wave came.<\/p>\n

\u8abf\u5b50\u306b\u4e57\u3063\u3066\u306f\u3044\u3051\u306a\u3044\u3068\u6c17\u3092\u5f15\u304d\u7de0\u3081\u305f\u304c\u3001<\/p>\n

\u60aa\u3044\u3053\u3068\u306f\u4f55\u3082\u8d77\u3053\u3089\u305a\u3001<\/p>\n

\u300c\u5730\u306e\u795e\u3068\u3044\u3046\u306e\u306f\u78ba\u304b\u306b\u3044\u308b\u300d<\/p>\n

\u3068\u611f\u3058\u305f\u3053\u3068\u3092\u3053\u306e\u753b\u50cf\u304b\u3089\u601d\u3044\u51fa\u3057\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n

I tightened my mind not to get in the way,<\/p>\n

but this image reminded me that nothing bad happened and I felt that<\/p>\n

“the god of the earth is certainly there.”<\/p>\n

\u3053\u306e\u5834\u5408\u306e\u795e\u3068\u3044\u3046\u306e\u306f\u3001<\/p>\n

\u30a2\u30cb\u30df\u30ba\u30e0\u306e\u795e\u3067\u3042\u308a\u3001<\/p>\n

\u304d\u3063\u3068\u53e4\u6765\u304b\u3089\u4eba\u9593\u304c\u6301\u3064\u5c0a\u656c\u3068\u304b\u754f\u6016\u307f\u305f\u3044\u306a\u3082\u306e\u3060\u308d\u3046\u304b\u3002<\/p>\n

The god in this case is the god of animism,<\/p>\n

and is it something like the respect or awe that humans have had since ancient times?<\/p>\n

\u3068\u306b\u304b\u304f\u3053\u306e\u65e5\u3082\u611f\u52d5\u7684\u306a\u65e5\u3060\u3063\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n

I was impressed on this day as well.<\/p>\n

\u3053\u306e\u30b5\u30fc\u30d5\u30fb\u30b9\u30dd\u30c3\u30c8\u3092\u6559\u3048\u3066\u304f\u308c\u305f\u30c0\u30cb\u30fc\u5e2b\u7bc4\u306b\u3082\u3042\u308a\u304c\u3068\u3046\u3002<\/p>\n

Thanks also to Master Danny for teaching us this surf spot.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Catch Surf\u00ae Skipper Fish \u2165 6\u20190\u2033<\/p>\n

Nakisurf Original Twin + Vektor VMK<\/p>\n

Photo by @happysurfingokinawa<\/p>\n

.<\/p>\n

\u30c6\u30a4\u30af\u30aa\u30d5\u306e\u7cbe\u5ea6\u304c\u5411\u4e0a\u3057\u305f\u3068\u611f\u3058\u3066\u3044\u305f\u304c\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3053\u306e\u65e5\u306f\u8abf\u5b50\u304c\u60aa\u304b\u3063\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n

I felt that the accuracy of the takeoff had improved,<\/p>\n

but I wasn’t feeling well that day.<\/p>\n

\u30c0\u30cb\u30fc\u5e2b\u7bc4\u304c\u64ae\u3063\u3066\u304f\u308c\u305f\u3053\u306e\u5199\u771f\u3092\u898b\u308b\u3068\u3001<\/p>\n

\u30d1\u30c9\u30eb\u56de\u6570\u304c\u5c11\u306a\u304b\u3063\u305f\u3088\u3046\u3067\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3053\u306e\u4f4d\u7f6e\u304b\u3089\u30c6\u30a4\u30af\u30aa\u30d5\u3057\u3066\u3044\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n

Looking at the picture taken by Master Danny,<\/p>\n

I was in the waves from this position.
\nNot enough paddling.<\/p>\n

\u3053\u306e\u7406\u7531\u3092\u8003\u3048\u3066\u307f\u308b\u3068\u3044\u304f\u3064\u304b\u3042\u3063\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n

Considering the reason for this, there were several.<\/p>\n

\u4e00\u756a\u306e\u5927\u304d\u306a\u7406\u7531\u306f\u3001<\/p>\n

\u6ce2\u6570\u304c\u6975\u7aef\u306b\u5c11\u306a\u304b\u3063\u305f\u4e2d\u3067\u5947\u8de1\u7684\u306a\u826f\u6ce2\u304c\u3084\u3063\u3066\u304d\u3066\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3061\u3087\u3046\u3069\u81ea\u5206\u306e\u9806\u756a\u3060\u3063\u305f\u304b\u3089\u7126\u3063\u3066\u3057\u307e\u3063\u305f\u306e\u3060\u308d\u3046\u3002<\/p>\n

The biggest reason is that the number of waves is extremely low,<\/p>\n

and in the meantime,<\/p>\n

a miraculous good wave came and I was impatient because it was just my turn.<\/p>\n

\u3082\u3046\u3072\u3068\u3064\u306f\u3001<\/p>\n

\u30b8\u30e3\u30a4\u30a2\u30f3\u3068\u30ac\u30e9\u3055\u3093\u3068\u3044\u3046\u53cb\u4eba\u305f\u3061\u304c\u6765\u3066\u3044\u305f\u306e\u3067\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3046\u308c\u3057\u304f\u3066\u9038\u3063\u3066\u3057\u307e\u3063\u305f\u306e\u3060\u308d\u3046\u3002<\/p>\n

The other was that my friends,<\/p>\n

Gian Toshi and Gala san were there,<\/p>\n

so I was happy and impatient.<\/p>\n

\uff08\u30b8\u30e3\u30a4\u30a2\u30f3\u3068\u30ac\u30e9\u3055\u3093\u306b\u3064\u3044\u3066\u306f\u3001<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\u5dfb\u672b\u30ea\u30f3\u30af\uff0a\uff12\u3092\u53c2\u7167\u304f\u3060\u3055\u3044\uff09<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Photo by @happysurfingokinawa<\/p>\n

.<\/p>\n

\u30ac\u30e9\u3055\u3093\u306f\u516c\u5e73\u3067\u304a\u304a\u3089\u304b\u306a\u4eba\u3060\u3002<\/p>\n

\u305d\u3057\u3066\u79c1\u305f\u3061\u306e\u6307\u5c0e\u8005\u3067\u3042\u308b\u30e9\u30ab\u6cd5\u738b\u3082\u6a2a\u5c71\u6cf0\u4ecb\u3055\u3093\u3082\u3088\u304f\u3054\u5b58\u77e5\u306a\u306e\u3068\u3001<\/p>\n

\u79c1\u304c\u5927\u597d\u304d\u306a\u938c\u5009\u754c\u9688\u306e\u3053\u3068\u3092\u3088\u304f\u77e5\u3063\u3066\u3044\u308b\u306e\u3067\u8a71\u3057\u3066\u3044\u3066\u697d\u3057\u3044\u3002<\/p>\n

\u305d\u3057\u3066\u30b5\u30fc\u30d5\u30a3\u30f3\u3092\u672c\u5f53\u306b\u308f\u304b\u3063\u3066\u3089\u3063\u3057\u3083\u308b\u3057\u3001<\/p>\n

\u4ed6\u306e\u30b5\u30fc\u30d5\u30a1\u30fc\u3082\u3088\u304f\u89b3\u5bdf\u3055\u308c\u3066\u3044\u308b\u3053\u3068\u3092\u5b66\u3070\u3055\u305b\u3066\u3044\u305f\u3060\u3044\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nacky and I<\/p>\n

Photo by @happysurfingokinawa<\/p>\n

.<\/p>\n

\u8ab0\u304b\u3068\u4e00\u7dd2\u306b\u6ce2\u306b\u4e57\u308b\u306e\u306f\u3001<\/p>\n

\u97f3\u697d\u3068\u540c\u3058\u3088\u3046\u306b\u30cf\u30fc\u30e2\u30cb\u30fc\u3060\u3068\u601d\u3046\u3002<\/p>\n

I think riding the waves with someone is just as harmonious as music.<\/p>\n

\u524d\u8005\u304c\u3069\u3046\u52d5\u304f\u304b\u3001<\/p>\n

\u6ce2\u3092\u3069\u3046\u8aad\u3093\u3067\u3044\u308b\u304b\u3092\u8003\u3048\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3055\u3089\u306b\u306f\u6ce2\u30d5\u30a7\u30a4\u30b9\u306e\u30b9\u30da\u30fc\u30b9\u3068\u3001<\/p>\n

\u4eca\u5f8c\u306e\u5c55\u958b\u3092\u4e88\u6e2c\u3057\u3066\u6ed1\u308b\u3002<\/p>\n

Think about how other surfers move,<\/p>\n

how they read the waves,<\/p>\n

and even anticipate the space of the wave face and future developments.<\/p>\n

\u306a\u304b\u306a\u304b\u697d\u3057\u3044\u3057\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3053\u3046\u3044\u3046\u30ed\u30f3\u30b0\u30dc\u30fc\u30c9\u6ce2\u306a\u3089\u3070\u3001<\/p>\n

\u4e00\u7dd2\u306b\uff18\u4eba\u304f\u3089\u3044\u4e57\u308c\u308b\u3082\u306e\u3067\u3082\u3042\u308b\u3002<\/p>\n

It’s a lot of fun,<\/p>\n

and with this kind of longboard wave,<\/p>\n

about eight people can ride together.<\/p>\n

\u6700\u8fd1\u306e\u30b5\u30fc\u30d5\u30a3\u30f3\u30d6\u30fc\u30e0\u306b\u3088\u308b\u6df7\u96d1\u6642\u3067\u3059\u3089\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3053\u306e\u3084\u308a\u65b9\u306a\u3089\u3070\u3001<\/p>\n

\u591a\u304f\u306e\u4eba\u304c\u30cf\u30c3\u30d4\u30fc\u30b5\u30fc\u30d5\u30a3\u30f3\u3092\u4f53\u73fe\u3067\u304d\u308b\u306e\u3060\u308d\u3046\u3002<\/p>\n

Even during times of congestion due to the recent surfing boom,<\/p>\n

many people will be able to embody happy surfing this way.<\/p>\n

\u3067\u3082\u65e5\u672c\u3067\u306f\u3001<\/p>\n

\uff11\uff19\uff18\uff10\u5e74\u4ee3\u306b\u6d78\u900f\u3057\u305f<\/p>\n

\u300e\u30ef\u30f3\u30de\u30f3\u30fb\u30ef\u30f3\u30a6\u30a7\u30fc\u30d6\u300f\u3068\u3044\u3046\u30eb\u30fc\u30eb\u53b3\u5b88\u306b\u3088\u308a\u3001<\/p>\n

\u79c1\u304c\u305d\u3046\u601d\u3063\u3066\u3044\u3066\u3082\u3001<\/p>\n

\u8b1d\u3089\u308c\u305f\u308a\u3001<\/p>\n

\u6012\u3089\u308c\u305f\u308a\u3059\u308b\u3002<\/p>\n

Even if I think so, in many places in Japan,<\/p>\n

someone apologizes or gets angry because of the strict adherence to the rules-<\/p>\n

-that permeated the 1980s called “one-man one-wave.”<\/p>\n

\u4e00\u65b9\u5411\u306e\u6ce2\u306a\u3089\u3070\u308f\u304b\u308b\u304c\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3053\u3093\u306a\u65e5\u306f\u7de9\u6162\u659c\u9762\u3067\u30af\u30cd\u30af\u30cd\u3059\u308b\u3060\u3051\u306a\u306e\u3067\u3001<\/p>\n

\u305d\u3093\u306a\u753b\u4e00\u7684\u306a\u30eb\u30fc\u30eb\u3092\u9069\u7528\u3059\u3079\u304d\u3067\u306f\u306a\u3044\u3068\u611f\u3058\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n

I know if it’s a one-way wave,<\/p>\n

but on a day like this,<\/p>\n

I just squeeze on a slow slope,<\/p>\n

so I felt that such a uniform rule should not be applied.<\/p>\n

\u305d\u3093\u306a\u3053\u3068\u3092\u8003\u3048\u306a\u304c\u3089\u5965\u6b66\u5cf6\u30d3\u30fc\u30c1\u306b\u884c\u304f\u3068\u3001<\/p>\n

\u300e\u30b3\u30ed\u30ca\u5bfe\u7b56\u3067\u904a\u6cf3\u7981\u6b62\u300f\u3068\u305f\u304f\u3055\u3093\u306e\u5f35\u308a\u7d19\u304c\u3057\u3066\u3042\u308a\u3001<\/p>\n

\u601d\u8003\u505c\u6b62\u306e\u5f79\u4eba\u305f\u3061\u304c\u901a\u9054\u3092\u53d7\u3051\u305f\u5f35\u308a\u7d19\u306b\u3088\u308a\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3053\u3093\u306a\u4eba\u6c17\u304c\u306a\u3044\u30d3\u30fc\u30c1\u307e\u3067\u3082\u9589\u9396\u3057\u3066\u3044\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n

When I went to O-jima Beach in this way,<\/p>\n

there were a lot of posters saying<\/p>\n

“Swimming is prohibited due to Covid-19 measures”<\/p>\n

Again,<\/p>\n

thought-stopping officials have been notified<\/p>\n

that even such an unpopular beach has been closed.<\/p>\n

\u3059\u308b\u3068\u3001<\/p>\n

\u5730\u5143\u306e\u5b50\u3069\u3082\u305f\u3061\u304c\u305f\u304f\u3055\u3093\u3084\u3063\u3066\u304d\u3066\u3001<\/p>\n

\u6a4b\u304b\u3089\u98db\u3073\u8fbc\u3093\u3067\u6cf3\u3044\u3067\u3044\u308b\u306e\u3092\u898b\u3066\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3055\u3059\u304c\u6c96\u7e04\u306e\u5b50\u3069\u3082\u305f\u3061\u306f\u3001<\/p>\n

\u3053\u3068\u306e\u672c\u8cea\u3092\u308f\u304b\u3063\u3066\u3044\u308b\u306e\u3060\u3068\u77e5\u3063\u3066\u3046\u308c\u3057\u304f\u306a\u3063\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n

Then, when I saw a lot of local children jumping from the bridge and swimming,<\/p>\n

I was happy that they knew the essence. Keep happy surfing!<\/p>\n

\u25a1<\/p>\n

\u3010\u5dfb\u672b\u30ea\u30f3\u30af\uff1a\u6c96\u7e04\u5230\u7740\u65e5\u3011<\/p>\n

\u3010\u30b5\u30fc\u30d5\u30a3\u30f3\u7814\u7a76\u6240\u3011\u5944\u7f8e\u304b\u3089\u6c96\u7e04\u30b8\u30a7\u30c0\u30a4\u30fb\u30de\u30b9\u30bf\u30fc\u306e\u3068\u3053\u308d\u307e\u3067\uff3f\uff08\uff15\uff18\uff16\u6587\u5b57\uff09<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n