![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.nakisurf.com\/blog\/naki\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/NKP_2557.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nHello Chiba Jeffries.<\/p>\n
Cold clouds hung down on the ground.<\/p>\n
And the eastern swell bloomed in the sea.<\/p>\n
Strong offshore winds and cannonball-sounding waves.<\/p>\n
I had a surfboard designed about 50 years ago.<\/p>\n
When I paddled out,<\/p>\n
it was wilder than it looked,<\/p>\n
and Led Zeppelin’s songs were refrained in my head.<\/p>\n
What I was thinking about in the lineup was<\/p>\n
“all of the wave surface”<\/p>\n
as one of the teachings of Okinawa master Danny Melhado.<\/p>\n
Recalling that, and again,<\/p>\n
the next wave, and so on, I rode the wave.<\/p>\n
When I stalled at the top of the wave,<\/p>\n
I was about to take off from the wind that was pushed up into the sky.<\/p>\n
The fun of floating in the sky is the fun of life.<\/p>\n
The fun was condensed there.<\/p>\n
After surfing,<\/p>\n
I stood on an artificial hill overlooking the waves and watched the waves for a while.<\/p>\n
The wind hadn’t stopped yet,<\/p>\n
and the strong waves were thundering all the time.<\/p>\n
\u25a1<\/p>\n
Happy Surfing and Happy Lifestyle!!<\/p>\n
\u25ce<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.nakisurf.com\/blog\/naki\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/202104_Jefferey_wave_6347.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\n