Happy Surfing Okinawa 12 years anniversary cake @foodjourneyokinawa
MT, I remembered Michael Thomson.
After attending his studio to learn avant-garde, core art, and the esoteric nature of Herbie Hancock, he feasted on delicious food at the Italian restaurant beneath the studio.
That time MT was planning the next firing of Gatcha and MCD.
Danny Melhado.
Former WCT surfer.
Currently, he presides over “Happy Surfing Okinawa” in Yomitan, western Okinawa.
But in fact, it doesn’t matter what the title or history is.
I want to learn “important things” from people who are shining like MT mentioned above.
Danny is the perfect person for that.
After spending a few days together, I found out that he was “enjoying life on a daily basis.”
In addition, I was impressed by Danny’s way of life, “enjoying (surfing) today.”
For example, if you can surf in the evening even if you are tired, you will paddle out just saying “There is no tomorrow”.
This attitude is the basis of a high level Danny.
Moreover, he has the mental strength and body that has been doing so for more than 40 years.
To be clear, the luck and physical feel of a historic great, as a full-featured mass of talent has continued to surf.
I came to Okinawa because I wanted to be his student.
I want to hear about the setting while entering the barrel in Amami, the relationship between deceleration and water contact, how about the physical?
When I was thinking about where to bring my consciousness, I entered a labyrinth.
I wanted to learn everything from the perspective of the waves.
Then, the Guru loved mulberry fruits, and he caught ripe ones and ate them raw, or put them in smoothies and mixed them.
Of course I also became a mulberry harvest team.
According to Nacky from Okinawa, mulberry fruits are eaten only occasionally by children, and not many people collect and eat them so far, but they are more delicious than any American cherry.
I’m a big fan of cooking, but Danny is just as interested in deliciousness and prefers classic flavors.
Mix cold Orion beer with flour and salt, entangle white fish famous in Okinawa, and fry at low temperature.
Then topped with Danny ’s white sauce, spicy salsa and cabbage. Served on a warm, oven corn tortilla.
When you drink Orion beer while thinking that it is Cerveza the most delicious Beer-batterd fish tacos in my life form an image, and the wonderful days are revived with the taste.
Even if he gets drunk at night, he wakes up silently before dawn.
Not afraid of dark hours, he fuels coffee and milk, acts with flashlights, and arrives at good tides anywhere on the other side of the island.
Furthermore, it padds like a feather softly to the other side of the horizon, and arrives at the outer-reef.
Around the peak, a paddle with torque is put in the belly of the wave once or twice, and a rail is raised to take off.
It makes a bottom turn at light-speed, suddenly slows down to zero, and disappears into the deep barrel.
After a while, a board emerges from a ridiculous place, hits it on the waves, and disappears, leaving only an afterimage.
The word wipeout is not found anywhere, and always smiles and embodies “Happy Surfing”.
From him, the moment of “only today” and the idea of ”there is no tomorrow” drift from daily activities.
It’s like a samurai like Miyamoto Musashi, like a Roman warrior Aeneis. But he doesn’t like conflict or competition at all, and his own past is reminiscent of “that was for life.”
However, in order to compete in WCT, he must be in the 16th place in the world in the second league called QS.
Moreover, this is a one-year aggregated result.
When I heard about the strategy and things at that time, he didn’t want to say that he was just surfing.
In summary, the guru was still the chosen person, the Jedi knight. I just want to learn a lot.
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